Here’s a question that a lot of individuals ask: What’s the distinction in between MIG and TIG welding?

A little confusion is perfectly normal. Both processes utilise electrical arcs to produce heat and sign up with metal objects. Likewise, both procedures use an inert gas mixture to prevent corrosion of welding electrode.

There are some essential distinctions between these two electrical arc welding processes:

How Each Process Works

MIG, or metal inert gas, welding is a process that includes continuously feeding a metal wire into the weld being made. The wire acts as a filler product to help sign up with the two metal items.

TIG, or tungsten inert gas, welding uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to run a current through the metals being joined and might or may not utilise a filler metal.

Suitability for Welding Thicker Metal Objects

Because MIG welding employs a consumable filler material to make welds, it can often complete welds of thicker metal things in less time than a TIG weld.

Without a filler material, TIG welding has to get the pieces of metal being welded hot enough to form a bond with each other. Normally, this is simpler with thinner pieces of metal than with thicker ones.

In general, for actually thick, heavy-duty welds, MIG welding is the go-to choice. For thinner pieces of metal, TIG welding tends to be the more efficient service.

Ease of Control

Typically speaking, MIG welding is more frequently recommended for ease of use. The procedure has the tendency to be a bit more flexible of errors than TIG welding is– so it’s typically recommended for first-time operators and non-professionals.

TIG welding, on the other hand, needs extremely stringent control over the timing, pressure, and electrical present utilised in the weld. In most cases, TIG welding is best done utilising an automated, computer system numerically-controlled (CNC) welding machine. Devices can dependably perform similar welds over and over much more quickly than a manual welder could.

When using an automated welder (whether it’s MIG or TIG), it is essential to get the weld settings and controls perfect– otherwise, you risk duplicating the same mistake over and over.

Which One is Better?

The response depends on the job in question. As noted previously, MIG welding is usually better for heavy-duty welding work where larger, thicker pieces of metal are being joined due to the fact that it uses filler product.

TIG welding can work marvels for joining smaller sized pieces of metal, such as the wires for a custom-made steel wire basket. Due to the fact that the TIG procedure straight joins 2 pieces of metal, there’s no filler material to stop working.

With robotic welding devices, TIG welding can be a bit lower-maintenance, given that the welding electrode isn’t really being continuously taken in by the welding process. Nevertheless, the welding electrode still needs to be properly cleaned up and polished between uses– particularly when welding stainless-steel.

Simply put, choosing one welding solution as the best need to be done on a case-by-case basis, which is why Marlin Steel is dedicated to having a series of tools and technologies for finishing welds.


If you are looking to install the darkest legal tint on your car or vehicle, there are a number of technical considerations you need to understand, or you run the risk of ending up on the wrong side of the law, and could even expose yourself to financial risks or possible criminal charges. How is that possible? Brad Maguire is one of a select group of window tinters talking about this issue, and he explains why it’s so important below.

In all States and Territories of Australia, the darkest legal tint allowed on a vehicle is one with a VLT (visible light transmission) level of 35%, on all vehicle windows (excluding the front windscreen, which is not allowed to have any window film with the exception of the visor strip across the top). The only exception to this is in the NT and WA. In the Northern Territory you are permitted a minimum VLT of 15% for windows behind the driver, and in WA you are allowed 20% VLT on windows behind the driver.

So here’s where things get a little tricky. Most vehicles already come with a slight tint in the glass in their windows, so this needs to be considered when adding tint to your windows. Lets look at the maths.

If the factory windows on your car already block 30% of light, when a film with the “darkest legal tint” of 35% is added to this glass, it will emit only 35% of light into a window that is already only emitting 70% of light, so the end VLT reading will be impacted by the combination of both tint ratings.

This needs to be respected because if a driver inadvertently fails to comply with tinting regulations, the least of your problems is the risk of a fine. But worse still, if a vehicle is involved in an accident and its illegally dark windows are considered by the court to be a contributing factor, this could mean the nulling of your insurance policy, leaving you exposed to the full financial implications of the accident. Additionally criminal charges could apply if property is damaged or people are injured.

Another consideration is that by modifying a vehicle with illegally dark windows, the vehicle is deemed un-roadworthy, which means you can’t legally drive the car again until it has been put through roadworthy testing, in which case the illegal tint will have to be removed! That’s why the combined VLT of both the glass and film really should be considered when you’re selecting the appropriate tint for your car.

Summing up then, When it comes to tinting windows, make sure you choose a reputable professional installer that has the expertise to be able to offer you the best solution for your circumstances and help you install the darkest legal tint, legally! That way you’ll end up with a range of benefits, instead of a list of ongoing risks that could cause your some real problems if your unlucky enough to be fined or involved in an accident.